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Ship's log of Krogen 48' Classic Solveig III: A cruise down the East Coast


(Coinjock, NC) This is likely to be it for awhile because we head off today into what looks like wilderness, with no cell service or wireless hotspots for at least the next couple of days. We're going to try to make good time because, the weather is supposed to turn nasty on Pamlico and Albermarle Sounds beginning around mid-day Tuesday, so we'd like to get into Oriental by Monday night if we can. No marinas either, so we'll be anchoring out for the next couple of nights.

Yesterday we had flat water again down the canal and North Landing River and into the North Carolina cut. The river was wide and pretty but very shallow - one to three feet on each side of the well-marked channel. The cut was, and is again this morning, filled with bass boats trolling up and down, the operators generally disinclined to wave and looking like their diets don't feature fish all that much, but maybe what Jack Gaine calls the "white vegetables" like potatoes and pasta, and goodly portions of what we had for dinner last night..

We ate ashore for the first time this trip, following the recommendation in John and Virginia Phillips' ICW restaurant guide to have the 32 ounce prime rib for $9.95 at the Coinjock Marina restaurant. Of course that was a 1999 book - now it's $32.95. But that's for two. We prepared all day by eating Barbara's special concoction of oat bran stew for breakfast (with blueberries, of course - recipe available) and gobbling baby aspirin preemptively to dislodge any arterial buildup. The meal started with a basket of home-made potato chips provided gratis, wine for Barbara and a sizeable Sapphire martini up with olives for John. Soon what looked like about a half cow arrived at our table - about 3.5 inches thick, and witdth- and length-wise about the size of a big porterhouse steak. I always get a little anxious when long-time fish and fowl eater Barbara tucks into red meat, which she's done with increasing frequency since retirement. It's not the enthusiasm so much as the snarling and gnawing. Believe me, you don't want to try to take it away from her. Fortunately, there was more than enough for both of us, and we brought a big hunk back to the boat to use for soup or sandwiches, or perhaps to mix with oat bran. Then we tossed and turned all night while our digestive systems made their pitiable attacks on the unexpected target objects.

The only other hot news is that John showered yesterday. This was in response to the petition circulated among adjacent boats at the marina. So we're all full, crisp and clean and ready for at least an eight hour chug to the Pungo River. On this stretch the chart warns of submerged stumps, logs and branches along the edges, so we'll be moving with extreme caution.

More later. J&B